Hopefully HUB will add some color commentary and guru knowledge - we can help you try and decode if he does. I think he's from the Ukraine or some other socialist state like the west coast and his technical English is challenged ... but invaluable
Yes, I am from Checkhislingosealaugheeha, and this google translation machine is being taxed I get a hold of it... anyway, sure sounds like E with the key cycling.
Funny, but over at the yammie sites, they have an adjustable TPS you need to keep an eye on. Plus, saved codes that still are in play until you clear the codes. Interesting.
But here, these are preset and do not even recommend moving them for any reason. Ask me how I know they will code within the slightest move. Not only that, it will be out of sync with the subthrottle, being they are both synced at the same open/close positions.
Bucking like that sure feels intake/TPS bronco kind of... I felt the same thing hack wise, if I catch how you describe it. So it's more back to a thermo window? The few minute warm up, then hammer the bike till this time frame comes in; and now at punishing heat thrown at it with the sportier ride that was from the start beings to happen, right?
So right off the bat I'd check for the chemical buildup at the (-) battery post. That means pull the tray and physically look if the shops did not. Then, you'd be checking the bolts being tight and if there is crust, you dip the cable in vinegar, wipe the crust off the battery with tap water and q-tip. Nut and bolt in with the vinny. Then scrape the lead battery post clean with a single edge razor, scrape clean the cable end so both have fresh contact points.
The next is to unclip the TPS and reclip a few times so this scratches new metal at the pins. If say you look at the connector pins and they are green looking, then this too is dipped in vinegar, clean with fresh water. Contact clean the TPS pins with a cotton q-tip to clean up that electrolysis.
No codes so no down sensors in the loop... just a high miler with maybe some flow hang up at the connector points? Fuel pump wise gets taxed a lot at the beginning, but does not occur till say this time window going in that seems like it's more electrical with the key being cycled and cleared of some off signal due to heat?
Okay, were are my US interpreters for this post sent?
* Last updated by: Hub on 1/2/2022 @ 3:41 PM *
Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time